Carb/Fuel

HS2 with K&N on a 1300 engine

feeds@yuku.com (greenmeanie) — Wed, 21 Oct 2009 04:01:14 GMT

I have a 1974 UK Spec 1300 engine, with what I believe to be HS2 SU's. A previous owner has fitted nice shiny round K&N filters.
The car starts & idles well but struggles to rev under load over about 2500rpm, pulling out the choke helps considerably, until you forget to close before you get to the next traffic light.
I'm sure this is a 'common setup' so could someone tell me which needle &/or jet combination is required, please? Also is there an easy way...

Replacement carb frustration

feeds@yuku.com (Spit76) — Mon, 19 Oct 2009 17:58:34 GMT

As some of you may recall recently I had sugar and sodium silicate dumped into my fuel tank. After cleaning the original carb it did not want to run right. So I pulled out the extra ZS carb that was given to me by a friend of one of my co-workers. It had been sitting around for about 8 years since he put a weber on his Spitfire. I took the carb apart and got a rebuild kit, by-pass diagphram, needle and seat, and new float. I tanked the carb and installed all the new parts and shaft...

High idle too high

feeds@yuku.com (obxpaul) — Sat, 17 Oct 2009 16:55:27 GMT

Okay, the big question, is the water temp control choke worth using, or is manual the way to go?????

I have developed a high idle on start up (2100 - 2400) in the past few months that drops down to normal idle once the engine warms up ( I can see the dollar signs being sucked into the carb at high idle). Have the single carb and it works fine, even get good gas mileage (28 - 33). I am looking at going into the choke system and see what little gremlin is screwing with my idle. I do...

replacement fuel pump

feeds@yuku.com (NMslim) — Wed, 30 Sep 2009 10:05:34 GMT

Replaced fuel pump but decided not to go electric afterall. Now having same problem as before....leaking fuel around hex head bolt on top of pump. Tightened the bolt and it moved some but not much. This is the second fuel pump in a year and both leaked around this bolt...one I replaced was also leaking at vent hole in lower body of pump. Am I doing something wrong(such as buying from wrong source) or just having bad luck. Never had such a hassle...usually just replace and forget.
Jim...

Weber 32/36 DGV fitted, now excess crankcase pressure

feeds@yuku.com (xebec) — Mon, 28 Sep 2009 22:22:00 GMT

Hi ALL,

I have been having continuous problems with my Spitfire 1500 TC SU Carbs and eventually have given up and fitted a Weber 32/36 DGV with a pierce manifold. This turns out to be a great bit of kit and the engine now runs perfectly and idles superbly. I have however encountered one major problem after having run the car to a meeting and back yesterday.
It has blown oil out of the dipstick tube and I altered the position of this (I...

electric fuel pump

feeds@yuku.com (NMslim) — Sat, 19 Sep 2009 08:01:53 GMT

My mechnical fuel pump has started leaking at vent hole on bottom side of pump. It is less than a year old(from Vickie B). I am thinking probably diaphram has hole???? My question is: If I replace with an electric pump, can I just unhook hoses from old and leave it in place? Would this hurt anything or do I need to make a cover to replace old fuel pump? Any advise is appreciated.

Gas tank sealant

feeds@yuku.com (supertech) — Thu, 17 Sep 2009 11:32:52 GMT

After reading some posts about fuel tank sealant I thought it might be a good idea for my tank which has a rusty bottom but does not leak at all. I phoned quite a few jobbers and no one carries it any more. They say in cold climates, the 'Kreem' flakes all up, plugs everything and makes it near impossible to clean out. I just wondered if anyone on this forum had any bad luck like that with it? Maybe you all live in warmer climes? Actually, no one here even sells the stuff and I've...

Cold Start Valve orientation. (NOT A QUESTION.)

feeds@yuku.com (Spit76) — Thu, 06 Aug 2009 18:16:32 GMT

THIS IS NOT A QUESTION BUT RATHER A NOTATION FOR ANYONE NEEDING HELP WITH A Z-S CARB REBUILD.

I just rebuilt by Z-S carb onver the last weekend. I got it back together but due to the fact that the carb sat in the pot for 4 days cleaning I forgot my orientation of the Cold Start Valve. I looked on the net for the answer I needed and found two web sites that led me to more confusion. One showed the four orifice holes to the top of the housing, and the other showed...

Fuel regulator

feeds@yuku.com (Victor Martin) — Mon, 20 Jul 2009 15:56:53 GMT

I've been getting some intermittent backfiring so ,I went out and bought a fuel regulator. Installed it ,adjusts from 1.5 to 5 psi. Make is Spectre. Tried to adjust this and not getting any flow of fuel. there is a Allan key under the top label that you can fine tune close or open it up more. This ended up being more of a headache, took it off and spit runs fine just thought I would add this , because of fuel pump maybe pushing to much fuel out?? Any thoughts or what fuel regulators...

installation advice needed

feeds@yuku.com (80 Spit) — Thu, 09 Jul 2009 18:55:01 GMT

I'm in the process of replacing the Fuel Pump on my Spit. It seems simple enough, but I do have a question. Do I need to drain the oil first since it's attached to the engine block? None of my manuals suggest draining the oil. If anyone who has replaced the mechanical fuel pump can let me know I would really appreciate it.

Need New Fuel Pump.HELP!

feeds@yuku.com (80 Spit) — Sun, 05 Jul 2009 11:36:34 GMT

Well my fuel pump finally gave out. I pushed my Spit home for three blocks. Thank God it's such a small car. I need to purchase a new fuel pump and need advice on where to buy. In terms of quality and price as well as easy installation, any help will be appreciated.
Thanks,
Ken

Su HS2 Plumbing

feeds@yuku.com (brucejo686) — Mon, 29 Jun 2009 07:40:41 GMT

Hello, I'm installing a set of Su HS2's on my '78 Spit. It seems obvious but I'd like to confirm the fuel line routing. There are only 2 spots on each float bowl to connect the lines. One faces the motor & is taller & the other faces away. I'm guessing the fuel line connects from the pump to the rear spot then flows out the front to the front carb outward facing inlet? The rear facing spicket on the front carb is a vent that I can tie into the valve cover vent...

WEBER DGV mystery hole - idle issue

feeds@yuku.com (nbman) — Mon, 22 Jun 2009 17:05:42 GMT

I was trying to get the 80 spit 1500 running decent tonight after having the carb off and cleaning it (it was running terribly before, spitting and backfiring, carb was all gummed up).

After reinstalling it, i could not get it tuned, per the instructions.it was running rough, and would not idle at all. After some playing around, i noticed that there is a port through the top of...

Leaking DGV

feeds@yuku.com (Teacherman) — Sat, 20 Jun 2009 14:58:23 GMT

We just finished installing a PCV system. Ever since we put the Weber 32/35 DGAV on the car last fall, I've had too much crankcase pressure and it blew oil everywhere. We tried running it though the air filter, but that didn't provide enough vacuum. Plus it gummed up the air filter something fierce.

We ended up tapping the intake manifold and installed a PCV valve. The engine runs smoother and the backfires between gear changes (2 to 3 and 3 to 4) are virtually gone (3 to 4...

backfireing when let off the throttle

feeds@yuku.com (Dan76spit) — Sun, 14 Jun 2009 17:39:52 GMT

hello all, i have been playing around setting my carb adjustment and idle. what i have going on now is when im cruising and i let off the throttle the car pops and backfires, not terrible but it does. I have a weber dgv carb on the car. What should my course of action be? Is it a mixture issue? Thanks all ...

Dan G.
1976 Spitfire
buffalo, NY

Carbs.

feeds@yuku.com (damson gt6) — Fri, 15 May 2009 22:55:09 GMT

Anyone out there tried a pair of H4 SU's on a 1500 Spit? The H4's have a downside but they do bolt up to the standard HS2 intake manifold and best of all, I already have a set. I would assume that the same needles used in the European spec HS4's would be ok?
Thanks,
Mack.

Won't Start

feeds@yuku.com (ryanhuetter) — Thu, 07 May 2009 16:12:47 GMT

Ok, so. I removed my Weber DGV carb last night just to clean it up a bit. I didn't fiddle with any of the jets or screws while it was off as I was planning on doing that today once I got it back on, except now the car won't start. The engine just turns without any sort of catch, not even a rough one. I can confirm that fuel is getting to the carb. Any ideas as to what might be off?

GT6+ Fuel Tank and adjacent tank in side wall

feeds@yuku.com (gloryride) — Thu, 30 Apr 2009 14:07:12 GMT

All,

I am dismantling my GT6+. Right above the gas tank to the left and bolted to the inner body, is a tank with two hoses coming out of it, one long and one short. It is about the size and shape of a Kleenex box. The hoses were not connected to anything so I am curious what this small container is and what it is for.

Jeffrey

FUEL PUMP

feeds@yuku.com (jessespit85) — Wed, 29 Apr 2009 16:09:08 GMT

HELP... My 1963 spitfire sat for a year unstarted. I went to start the car and it would not start. I noticed fuel coming out of the fuel pump. I then threw on a really old spare. When i put the spare on all the fuel leaked out of the gas tank from the fuel pump and onto the floor. I ordered a new pump. Could there be anything else wrong that a new pump wouldnt fix??

Accelerator return spring

feeds@yuku.com (maytag) — Sun, 26 Apr 2009 20:29:58 GMT

I notice in the Victoria British Catalog they list an accelerator return spring for the Stromberg carburetor on a 75 spit. obviously one end is attached to the carburetor throttle what is the other end attached to?